It's been a busy week with three trad sessions since the coaching day with Adrian. Starting in Eastby where I started out on some dirty yorkshire P2s. Traversing on Nose Climb felt good but the slab above caused me a few worries. Block Buttress felt better but I didn't slap for the move when I buggered up the sequence despite the bomber gear being at waist level. I still haven't committed to trying The Padder but found out that the crux is actually below the horizontal break so that makes the prospect interesting...
Wednesday at the Chevin was better with a good warmup and steady progress on the exposed upper section of Chevin Buttress. Going back next week to try The Waster which John proved had excellent gear on his attempt.
And then Millstone last night. Kat put in an excellent performance on Lyons Corner House but I reverted to type with Dexterity. Too much gear in when it got difficult and did't move above it. Was chatting afterwards about a mental trigger to reduce the gear, or to move so that my feet are above the next piece, something akin to the ideas of "feet feet feet" or "fix that centre of gravity" that already fire automagically.
So as predicted, I've not done set up any falls or committed to moves properly on anything above VS. That will change next week!